Good DIY aluminium profile sim rig instructions?
- Thread starter Bez
- Start date
My rigg is actually located in an "expanded closet", so it tends to get a bit hot, but you do get some privacy and the lack of windows is an good thing. However, it's a bit hard to take som good photos so here is some how it is done, but the photo quality is not so high.
Custom aluminium rig with OMP seat, OSW wheel (SimuCube, small Mige), Heusinkveld Sim Pedals Pro, 3x27" gsync 7680x1440 and TH8A shifter with mod plate.
Top view, with H shifter setup active
For paddle shifted cars, the H shifter can be folded out of the way, mouse plate slides on the 180 degree arm.
Keyboard tray slides and can be turned 180 degrees. Speakers is also located on the rig.
Custom vesa mount, and holder for the headphone when not used.
The OSW control box is mounted on the rig with access to ports/switch from drivers seat, when everything has been tested for while I will shorten the cables from the motor as well.
The servo motor is mounted with wing-nuts so the height of wheel can be easily adjusted for different cars so instrument can be seen (prefer to use the original car instruments). The heel plate is also seen in front of the pedals.
Wheel extension tube and quick release. The paddle shifters was a little bit to far away so I mounted an extra spacer to get it closer to the wheel.
I have an extra tray that can be slide in to be able to use an joystick setup for other games.
Wheel put away and keyboard tray out of the way it is rather easy to get in/out. The seat is on sliders (seen in bottom of pic) and can be adjusted over the whole range and locks with 4 locking levers.
The setup is very solid and maybe a bit over the top but very satisfied with the result.
Race on
Custom aluminium rig with OMP seat, OSW wheel (SimuCube, small Mige), Heusinkveld Sim Pedals Pro, 3x27" gsync 7680x1440 and TH8A shifter with mod plate.
Top view, with H shifter setup active
For paddle shifted cars, the H shifter can be folded out of the way, mouse plate slides on the 180 degree arm.
Keyboard tray slides and can be turned 180 degrees. Speakers is also located on the rig.
Custom vesa mount, and holder for the headphone when not used.
The OSW control box is mounted on the rig with access to ports/switch from drivers seat, when everything has been tested for while I will shorten the cables from the motor as well.
The servo motor is mounted with wing-nuts so the height of wheel can be easily adjusted for different cars so instrument can be seen (prefer to use the original car instruments). The heel plate is also seen in front of the pedals.
Wheel extension tube and quick release. The paddle shifters was a little bit to far away so I mounted an extra spacer to get it closer to the wheel.
I have an extra tray that can be slide in to be able to use an joystick setup for other games.
Wheel put away and keyboard tray out of the way it is rather easy to get in/out. The seat is on sliders (seen in bottom of pic) and can be adjusted over the whole range and locks with 4 locking levers.
The setup is very solid and maybe a bit over the top but very satisfied with the result.
Race on
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Regarding the details with 180 degree arm I using the 40x80 profile and this joint
http://www.motedis.com/shop/Slot-pr...pe-slot-8/Joint-40x80-I-type-slot-8::373.html
Mouse pad, keyboard tray use 2 or 4 of these sliders
http://www.motedis.com/shop/Slot-pr...-slot-8/Slider-I-Type-slot-8-I-3DP::3795.html
The seat is using 4 of these lockable slider, but I have modified them a bit for better mounting
http://www.motedis.com/shop/Slot-pr...r-with-clamp-lever-I-Type-slot-8-I::2585.html
http://www.motedis.com/shop/Slot-pr...pe-slot-8/Joint-40x80-I-type-slot-8::373.html
Mouse pad, keyboard tray use 2 or 4 of these sliders
http://www.motedis.com/shop/Slot-pr...-slot-8/Slider-I-Type-slot-8-I-3DP::3795.html
The seat is using 4 of these lockable slider, but I have modified them a bit for better mounting
http://www.motedis.com/shop/Slot-pr...r-with-clamp-lever-I-Type-slot-8-I::2585.html
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Wow. @Jens Roos that looks awesome. Would you be able to post a full part list?
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To give you an idea what I did order, some parts i did myself, I can arrange an more detailed file later but I need to re-install the software since I have installed w10 again since I did these drawings, the layout pdf is not up to date. The purchase cost was about 800 euro + vat, seat and brackets not included (It's my old car seat).
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Mr Latte
Premium
Nice to see some great cockpits in here and people discussing them
I seen images of this cockpit around in the past but recently came across a website and video showing various models.
Apart from a bit of colour coding. They use a rather nice 8020 solution for adjusting positions that some of the rather popular 8020 frames being sold don't use at all. Although they charge a lot for these I am not sure how much the main sliding/lock components from them actually cost if purchased as d.i.y 8020 suppliers.
Anyways just sharing for those seeking ideas or creativity.
JCL
I seen images of this cockpit around in the past but recently came across a website and video showing various models.
Apart from a bit of colour coding. They use a rather nice 8020 solution for adjusting positions that some of the rather popular 8020 frames being sold don't use at all. Although they charge a lot for these I am not sure how much the main sliding/lock components from them actually cost if purchased as d.i.y 8020 suppliers.
Anyways just sharing for those seeking ideas or creativity.
JCL
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I've just bought a job lot of 4040 profile off E bay. Total length of around 20m including a few nuts, feet etc for £155 and looking to turn it into a nice Sim rig when I return from holiday
So I now need to look into purchasing angle brackets, nuts, bolts etc, but not sure of correct sizes. Profile is 4040 with a 10mm slot so need to know the correct sizes, anyone help?
Edited to say I'm not sure link is working
So I now need to look into purchasing angle brackets, nuts, bolts etc, but not sure of correct sizes. Profile is 4040 with a 10mm slot so need to know the correct sizes, anyone help?
Edited to say I'm not sure link is working
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Been looking at the China/Hong Kong bits on E bay as some of them are less than half of the on line prices. Not in a hurry for delivery and my only apprehension is quality, but what can go wrong with nuts and bolts or corner pieces...
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They can be cheap terrible quality like the ones Fanatec use which leads to them rounding off when tightening/untightening just by hand. Or what I’ve had they are so soft they mould into the screw hole and can’t be removed, maybe not the end of the world on a rig but still would be very annoying and difficult to remove with damage.
They could also be even worse and not have the strength needed to hold the forces of the rig, I briefly used some mechano screws as I couldn’t find any 4mm ones at the time. Only needed it to hold my Accuforce control box to the rig and a quick release for my spare wheel, as soon as I tried to tighten it down full just threaded and disentigrated inside the good quality slot nuts.
Now obviously worst case scenario but sometimes it’s not worth cheaping out if there is potential to create more issues.
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Sorry for all the questions but this is all new to me. Just been on the KJN site and looked at corner brackets, but whilst on there I watched the video on core screws (no threading required). Seemed a very simple solution to joints, but most of the pictures of rigs show them built with corner brackets, so not sure why, as the screws would seem the obvious method and at less than a third of the cost. I assume it's to do with the strength of the joints and wondered if the brackets are necessary?
. Just been on the KJN site and looked at corner brackets, but whilst on there I watched the video on core screws (no threading required). Seemed a very simple solution to joints, but most of the pictures of rigs show them built with corner brackets, so not sure why, as the screws would seem the obvious method and at less than a third of the cost. I assume it's to do with the strength of the joints and wondered if the brackets are necessary?
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Yes that's the one. I realised the hole needed to be drilled for the Allen key but thought it would be little effort when weighed up with costs. I'll probably get packets of both to be on the safe side
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Just remember you need profiles with core screws, they are normally smooth.Yes that's the one. I realised the hole needed to be drilled for the Allen key but thought it would be little effort when weighed up with costs. I'll probably get packets of both to be on the safe side
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You will get an stronger joint using an bracket, easier lineup as it has guides on the rear of bracket. Will also be stronger against twist and overall an more flexible solution. But the cost of the brackets are quite high so an mix could be an solution as well.
But for mounting on the end of an profile it works fine just to tap the hole. Depending on profile you can sometimes tap directly, in my 40x40, 40x80 etc I tap M8 directly.
But for mounting on the end of an profile it works fine just to tap the hole. Depending on profile you can sometimes tap directly, in my 40x40, 40x80 etc I tap M8 directly.
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