PC2 Game changing info

[Kurupt CDN]

Edit: There has been some tweaks/changes in the past few patches so please use the temps listed in the link below for each class as recommended by Casey.

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?57541-Project-CARS-2-Tyre-Temps

So the game has been out now for a few weeks and I have had the joys of listening to the raving reviews and the hatred towards it, peoples opinions and complete opposite spectrums in regards to the game of what they were feeling....shitty, physics, bad ffb, track grips vary too much and same with the cars etc. etc.

I'll be honest, I've had moments of brilliance, followed by many WTF is wrong with the ffb and physics. I can't feel crap, mushy or any detail and usually quit to go screw with my ffb settings.

Today I was browsing through there forum looking for the magical cure to bring out the potential I've felt a few times when I came across a thread named "Tire Temps" that had 1 response with a link.
That link containedwhat I felt was the magical cure and transformed my meh rating to holy **** this game is way more sophisticated than I ever gave it credit, and completely changed the entire ffb and physics and threw the many WTF moments right out the window.

Here's the link, the important part is a few responses down by F1racer64 who linked Pirellis, Michelin and Hankook racing tire info containing what tires to run during certain temps, optimal temps as well as suggested chamber. I can't remember if the in-game tire brands are officially sponsored or based off them? but they were damn spot on!!

I choose the Audi R8 at Long Beach a track I've had issues with grip and feel, followed the info and headed out on the track. It started out the typical slippery no feel I'd come accustomed too, then with each lap I started getting more and more feedback and response from the ffb and the car, when I finally hit the optimal temp for that tire I was left grinning from ear to ear for nearly 2 hrs just lapping.

Here's the Link for those who want to read it
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/car-behavior-and-tire-temps-after-patch-2-0.361962/

For the lazy ill post the tire brand info here and give you a quick run down which was a quick copy & paste from F1racer

EDIT: Youll have to dl the tire info from the link as its too large for this form?
My tips:
I always thought green was the optimal temp colour for your tires and brakes....its actually a yellowy green you want.
Soft compounds are for cooler temp races
Hard compounds for hotter

The goal should be to achieve 32 PSI in every track condition. This means your cool (ambient) temp pressures set in tuning setup need to be HIGHER than your warm (ambient) temp pressures. Remember that the pressure being set in the tuning setup is your COLD pressure, whereas the target is 32 PSI (2.2 BAR) at HOT pressure state. Cooler ambient temps means less heat generated, so the starting pressure needs to be higher to begin with (closer to 32PSI).

Using the above guidelines, I have achieved consistent 150F - 175F temps in all conditions. Note that Pirelli states that "Racing tires work best at high temperatures (122° - 176° Fahrenheit)". In my testing, this has been exactly correct and has been where I have found the most grip.

For me, it completely changed how I looked at the game, the tire model and having to manage them while planning your strategy for the changing track conditions and weather has added so many aspects to my sim racing that I have not been able to experience to date in any title other than RF2.
Personally, I feel the live track 3.0 is even more advanced with the pooling water, snow, mud, ice and debris brought on track features.

I have a few questions for @Ian Bell if the info above is correct, why the hell didn't you use this info to highlight the tire model in your pre launch promos or pinned in your forums?

As a suggestion would it not be beneficial to raise the stock tunes PSI a few clicks so that the tires reach there optimal operating temps slightly quicker so it can highlight how good the game feels rather than struggling for several laps with lackluster ffb and response from the car.
The avg racer is never gonna figure it out and instantly give up or bash the game for poor physics and ffb. Once that tire starts reaching its optimal temps its feels amazing

Cheers
David

 

[ermo]

I don't know what wheel you are using Ermo but my t500 is useless with volume below 85. Been experimenting all evening. If I drop it to 50 even it feels very loose and flat without any strength etc.

Any body else out there with a T500? What are your settings?

Just for curiousity's (and completeness') sake:

If you set your Thrustmaster CP strength to 100% and pC2 Gain to 100*, what Volume do you need to use on Informative for it to:

a) Not clip
b) Match your preference wrt. weight?


Inquiring minds would like to know...

EDIT: I've seen two different reasons for not going with 100%. One is to not overheat the wheel base. Another is that the linearity of the feedback is (supposedly) better at 60-70 CP TM strength.

EDIT2: iR wheelcheck vs. different measurement technique for linearity.

 

[Brandon Wright]

Just for curiousity's (and completeness') sake:

If you set your Thrustmaster CP strength to 100% and pC2 Gain to 100, what Volume do you need to use on Informative for it to:

a) Not clip
b) Match your preference wrt. weight?


Inquiring minds would like to know...

If I set my CP strength to 100% on my T300 I'd probably have Volume down around 30 too. But on Thrustmaster wheels it's a common belief that if you set the CP above 60-70% you don't get true linearity so a lot of people don't go above that. I find that to be far too light and numb though so I go with a higher CP setting.

 

[Ryan Robbins]

Never heard that about CP and linearity? Mine is at 80 I believe

 

[Andy_J]

That's probably the reason then. Not that that's good or bad, just means when you're starting at such a low level you're going to have to turn the in-game settings up higher compared to someone using a higher gain. I've always found the recommended gain values on the Thrustmaster wheels way too light. I believe 70 is what's recommended for the T300 but if I set it at that my wheel feels broken so I go with 90. I don't get any clipping though, so all good as far as I'm concerned. If I had my profiler gain set at 60 or 70 I'd have to crank the in-game Volume way up too.

I agree. Bui the T500 is quite a bit more powerful. If I set it at say 80 it feels too strong and might break my thumbs.

 

[Andy_J]

Just for curiousity's (and completeness') sake:

If you set your Thrustmaster CP strength to 100% and pC2 Gain to 100, what Volume do you need to use on Informative for it to:

a) Not clip
b) Match your preference wrt. weight?


Inquiring minds would like to know...

I'll try it for a laugh.

 

[jimortality]

I like my T300 at 70-75 in control panel and use immersive with 100 gain Volume 40 and everything else default 50. I get all my forces in the middle 2 buckets so all good.

 

[Brandon Wright]

Never heard that about CP and linearity? Mine is at 80 I believe

It's based on the iRacing wheelcheck app which shows that the higher the gain the less "linear" it is. But according to this guy's tests that may not be accurate, so I say just go with what feels best.

http://www.racedepartment.com/threa...based-on-seriously-flawed-assumptions.124937/

I agree. Bui the T500 is quite a bit more powerful. If I set it at say 80 it feels too strong and might break my thumbs.

3.9 nm of torque vs 4.4 nm of torque, not that big of a difference, especially considering a CSW V2 is over 7 nm and DD wheels can be upwards of 20 nm. Anything below 80 on my CP is far too light, but obviously we all like different wheel weight. Doesn't matter much anyway, just that those who start with a higher CP gain will generally have lower in-game gain values and vice versa.

 

[Andy_J]

3.9 nm of torque vs 4.4 nm of torque, not that big of a difference, especially considering a CSW V2 is over 7 nm and DD wheels can be upwards of 20 nm. Anything below 80 on my CP is far too light, but obviously we all like different wheel weight. Doesn't matter much anyway, just that those who start with a higher CP gain will generally have lower in-game gain values and vice versa.

I have a funeral to attend later today in the other side of the country so wont be able to test anything until Sunday evening. But quickly tried my TM CP gain at 80 and the wheel is too strong for my liking. It's almost like having no power steering in a lorry at anything over 75. I'll stick with my TM gain at 65-70 for now and see how it goes.
Cheers

 

[ermo]

I have a funeral to attend later today in the other side of the country so wont be able to test anything until Sunday evening. But quickly tried my TM CP gain at 80 and the wheel is too strong for my liking. It's almost like having no power steering in a lorry at anything over 75. I'll stick with my TM gain at 65-70 for now and see how it goes.
Cheers

IF you decide to test it on Sunday, THEN you should probably try it with CP 100, Gain 100 and then adjust Volume to (your current CP/100) * (your current volume).

EXAMPLE:

So if you're currently at CP 65 (i.e. 65/100) and Gain and Volume at 100, you should instead try CP 100, Gain 100, Volume = (65/100) * 100 = 65 and see how that feels (though my guess is that you'll need to go lower on Volume than 65).

 

[thewarmer]

I have to say WoW these charts work even just using the rough pressure guide overview changes the game for me . just ran several tests on Spa mixed used a road car to start with then Group 6 , old Vintage LMP Car , then a Group C Porsche . then round the old Nürburgring with a Lotus 72 & then a old GT car on the ring with little tweaking I was only 30 sec's of the world record for that car , with only changing the tire values while leaving every thing else stock .
thanks for this post ...

 

[Chadd]

This means your cool (ambient) temp pressures set in tuning setup need to be HIGHER than your warm (ambient) temp pressures.

I'm a little confused by what this means

 

[Celeb]

If the ambient temperature is low, you need to set higher tyre pressures.

 

[Chadd]

If the ambient temperature is low, you need to set higher tyre pressures.

What is considered low in Celsius?

 

[Celeb]

Well, you always should aim for your hot tyre pressures to be around the optimum pressures. I start going to softs at around 20-25°C and then run 3-4 Laps to see how the pressures are.

 

[Chadd]

Well, you always should aim for your hot tyre pressures to be around the optimum pressures. I start going to softs at around 20-25°C and then run 3-4 Laps to see how the pressures are.

That is very helpful. Thank you. At what temperature should I go with hard and know I shouldn't even bother with the soft?

 

[Celeb]

If it is between 20 and 30, I'd say test both, over 30, go to hards.

 

[Andy_J]

IF you decide to test it on Sunday, THEN you should probably try it with CP 100, Gain 100 and then adjust Volume to (your current CP/100) * (your current volume).

EXAMPLE:

So if you're currently at CP 65 (i.e. 65/100) and Gain and Volume at 100, you should instead try CP 100, Gain 100, Volume = (65/100) * 100 = 65 and see how that feels (though my guess is that you'll need to go lower on Volume than 65).

Cheers Ermo
I have tested it with all configurations. I cant use TM gain of 100%, that's too much for anyone/ I have settled on tm gain 80% and pcars 2 gain 100, vol at 70. feels ok.

 

[tlsmikey]

I have a T500 and I don't have any issues with feedback strength. Is the FFB as good as say AMS or AC? Naahhh...not quite, but it's good. Settings as follows:

In Thrustmaster Panel:
Overall Strength: 60 (this is the most linear)
Periodic: 100
Constant: 100
Spring: 0
Damper: 0

In Game: I like Raw, but Informative is interesting as well
Gain: 100
Volume: ~40-60 depending upon car
Tone: 50-60 depending upon car
FX: 20-30

Take a look at your drivers for the T500 too. They just released a couple of new ones and I rolled back to the v47 if memory serves. The new drivers provided a ton more power, but at a significant loss of fidelity for some reason.

 

[Andy_J]

I am using these settings with my T500 with GTE wheel:

In Thrustmaster Panel:
Overall Strength: 80 (This gives a lot of strength and great feel.)
Periodic: 100
Constant: 100
Spring: 100 (These apparently don't do anything unless the game software calls for it.)
Damper: 100 (so best to have them on all the time)

In Game: I use Informative
Gain: 100
Volume: ~60-80 depending upon car anything less feels weak.
Tone: 50
FX: 60.

Been testing again all day and I really like these settings for now. Using V43 firmware because latest has issues with t500 and gte rim.

 

[ermo]

@Andy Jackson:

Cheers for being willing to experiment a little and sharing your findings.

If the T500 RS is as strong as you suggest, you *may* be able to get away with the RAW preset with your TM CP overall gain at 100, in-game 100 and Volume to whatever. My guess is that it would be the most fun with the non-aero cars, though (as otherwise the variations in Fy/lateral force may drown out the finer contact patch Mz details).

Worth thinking about if you ever get bored and just feel like tinkering.