Fanatec McLaren GT3 rim problems...

[anton_Chez]

Hey guys,

Anyone having problems with their newly released McLaren GT3 rim? I am having the clutch paddles drop out on me after a random amount of time. Upon plugging the rim into the base (I use an OSW with the Fanatec wheel base side conversion kit with the newly flashed firmware to operate the GT3 rim) everything is recognized, map-able and works fine. After a while driving, the clutch paddles just drop out and become unusable. I've had the gear paddles drop out once or twice but it's the clutch paddles that do it pretty much every session. Sometimes after 20 minutes, sometimes after a couple of minutes. I've contacted both Fanatec and Simracingmachines.com where I got the conversion kit from in a hope to get to the bottom of it. Just wondering if anyone else is having drama with it.

When you first plug it in, everything is recognized so their shouldn't be a problem with compatibility. Just a reliability thing now.

 

[Jeremy Ford]

Thanks Anton appreciate the info, I'll probably give this one a miss. I do like the look of the wheel but I also have a couple of other GT orientated rims which are more solid than this one. It does make sense the plastic body is going introduce some flex and if you can feel a difference I know I will too and it'll bother me even if it's marginal.

 

[anton_Chez]

It's a pretty nice rim for the price. I wonder what a similar size and shaped rim with a small button box would set me back, a custom made one. Probably the best part of a grande, so yeah for the price it fits nicely between my 320mm BMW and the smaller formula rim. I reckon the clutch problem might be related to the conversion kit rather than the rim itself. When I reattach the rim after the paddles drop out, they stay dropped out. When I unplug and re-plug the USB they come straight back. That relates directly to the conversion hub.

 

[Steve D]

If I unplug the USB connection and reconnect it, they come back and die after a random time. So re-plugging right on the grid, and then forgetting about it, might be a way to use them to some extent.

Possible USB power management issue mate?.

If so a few things to try.

1. Try USB 2.0 versus USB 3.0 USB

2. Go to Device Manager / Universal Serial Bus Controllers and look for the Host Controller (you may have several) with the Power Management tab within Properties. Deselect 'Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power' if it's ticked

3. Try a powered USB hub.

Good luck buddy!

Steve

 

[Jeremy Ford]

It's a pretty nice rim for the price. I wonder what a similar size and shaped rim with a small button box would set me back, a custom made one. Probably the best part of a grande, so yeah for the price it fits nicely between my 320mm BMW and the smaller formula rim. I reckon the clutch problem might be related to the conversion kit rather than the rim itself. When I reattach the rim after the paddles drop out, they stay dropped out. When I unplug and re-plug the USB they come straight back. That relates directly to the conversion hub.

Definitely the price is really good including the cost of the conversion. It is a good alternative than splashing out on custom rim.

My 300mm D rim and Ascher button plate cost around 650 euros. Which wasn't too bad at the time as the pound was quite a bit stronger back in 2016. For me It's just wanting more stuff for the sake of it rather than being a useful addition to my sim collection.

 

[anton_Chez]

Hi Steve,

I have just gone and un-ticked all of those devices with the power management tab available. So that's something easy to try. I also have recently added a powered USB hub because as you do with sim racing, you run out of motherboard USB ports! So it's now connected to that also. I think that is a 3.0 card with compatibility for 2.0 devices, as most 3.0 ports are, but I have 2 ports on my motherboard that are actually 2.0 ports that I can also try. I will try that next.

I have seen it drop out just sitting idle so I am going to leave the Mige turned on, and do some random stuff before bed, and see if it drops out like before. Thanks for the heads up!

I also finally turned my V3 platform on and drove for around 30 minutes with it and SSW going. I forgot how good it felt! I've been so swamped in building, setting up and testing that I have not even bothered to give it a go on the new chassis. I'll update my thoughts in my build log once I log a few more hours and tinker with some of my profiles. They feel pretty good on the GT1, maybe a bit better than I remember but that might just be because I haven't driven motion for over 2 months.

 

[anton_Chez]

Well I didn't have to convert it at all because my conversion hub is wheel base side, not rim side. So I just need one conversion kit and all Fanatec rims can remain untouched.

If I get another rim that's not Fanatec, I'd have to take off the quick release and conversion hub and attach it normally. Which is OK if you plan on running it for a few days in a row but not so great if you plan on jumping around from car to car. I will look into higher end rims a little later on. For now, I have most of the bases covered. Size, shape and all having button boxes of their own mean I am set practically, but as you said, we always want more...

 

[anton_Chez]

Strange that Devices and Printers screen now shows 2 Fanatec Clubsport Wheel Base devices, instead of previously only 1 when I had it connected the other way....

Hmmm.... Not dropped out yet. Although before I ran it a while before it did. Maybe 20 - 30 minutes. Actually driving that is.

 

[Mascot]

Man, I hate the way Fanatec insist on you supplying videos for every bloody issue. I'm sure it's just a way of getting people to give up and go home. Certainly worked with me and a problem I had with a Porsche shifter several years ago. The issue couldn't easily be filmed so I had to give up chasing them for a resolution.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

Man, I hate the way Fanatec insist on you supplying videos for every bloody issue. I'm sure it's just a way of getting people to give up and go home. Certainly worked with me and a problem I had with a Porsche shifter several years ago. The issue couldn't easily be filmed so I had to give up chasing them for a resolution.

Pictures and video or it didn’t happen

 

[anton_Chez]

Yeah it's pretty hard to show. I mean I just checked now and it's dropped out again. Wasn't using it, playing some SFV and went back to check and it's dead. So next is trying a USB 2.0 port and after that I tear down the quick release and conversion hub and play with some wires. Maybe ground the OSW itself and see if that helps but I have a pretty big suspicion that it's the rim. They had problems before release with them and I have seen others complain about the same issue. Chances that they are also on an OSW (in the Fanatec forum) are pretty slim. I've shot Simon an email at Simracingmachines maybe he can give me an answer.

I still want to try the plastic washer method of removing contact between the conversion hub and the wheel mount. Will need to get some. Not too keen on more washers on a direct drive wheel mount as I already have a few in there to bridge slight gaps in connector plates but worth a try.

 

[Ceolmor]

I became quite an expert at doing videos for Fanatec with the numerous issues I had with their stuff. When the right paddle shifter stopped working on my CSR wheel (not OSW) I made a video from over my shoulder with sound showing my hands triggering the two paddles and the on screen graphic of the wheel showing the little blue light appearing when I triggered the paddle that worked and it not lighting when I triggered the paddle that did not work. Maybe something similar will work for you.

 

[anton_Chez]

So just plugged the conversion hub into a USB 2.0 port, had the same thing happen. I pulled out a bluetooth dongle and re plugged it and it seems to have dropped out then. But, trying to replicate the same situation did not make the paddles drop out, so that could have just been coincidence. I think my only other option is to take off the hub, maybe reconnect the plug inside and make sure that there are no pinching wires or anything like that, and replace it with some plastic washers (I actually already have metal washers on there to space the connection) and see if it resolves it.

It's really weird how NOTHING else drops out apart from the paddles. Everything else works as intended. Buttons, funky switch, steering (which is displayed in the SimuCUBE device setting, not the Fanatec Wheel Base that the clutch paddles axis shows up in), it all remains connected and the only way for me to tell if something has happened is to periodically pull the clutch in on the rim to see if it registers. No other feedback is apparent. Shouldn't there be other problems with this and other rims if there is a problem with the conversion hub? I would think so.

 

[Mascot]

Are the paddles Hall effect operated?

 

[anton_Chez]

What does Hall effect mean? They are an axis, similar to a throttle or a clutch pedal.

 

[Mascot]

What does Hall effect mean? They are an axis, similar to a throttle or a clutch pedal.

Hall effect
noun
PHYSICS

1. the production of a potential difference across an electrical conductor when a magnetic field is applied in a direction perpendicular to that of the flow of current.

Basically, contactless sensors and switches. Lots of new sim gear (eg Fanatec shifter and pedals) use Hall effect components as there's no wear and tear on the contacts compared to, say, typical pots. Just wondering about the clutch paddles on your McLaren wheel, as I'm guessing Hall effect switches *might* be more susceptible to EMI.

 

[anton_Chez]

Might be. I just don't know if I am able to do anything about it. A firmware update might not make a difference if it is EMI, but like I said before this rim I never had any issue that needed looking at like this one has. It's the last thing I've added to the build, only last week. You would imagine EMI issues would appear on other things if this was an issue. Not saying it's not, just thinking out loud. It's either the rim or the conversion hub. That's what I've narrowed it down to.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

Might be. I just don't know if I am able to do anything about it. A firmware update might not make a difference if it is EMI, but like I said before this rim I never had any issue that needed looking at like this one has. It's the last thing I've added to the build, only last week. You would imagine EMI issues would appear on other things if this was an issue. Not saying it's not, just thinking out loud. It's either the rim or the conversion hub. That's what I've narrowed it down to.

Well the main reason I was thinking EMI because that’s the issue which caused the big delay originally otherwise I’d just say there is something wrong with the rim.

There is clearly something the rim doesn’t like or something wrong with it, I’m inclined to think it’s an issue with the wheel even if it’s just extreme sensitivity to EMI.

When I had a CSW V2 with a XB1 Hub if I switched into PC mode too soon after turning it on, none of the buttons would work at all and I had to restart it. Similarly every now and then the V3 pedals would randomly lose calibrated settings even though I used automatic calibration so before every session I’d test everything in the wheel/pedal properties.

It could just be a firmware/software issue as it’s a new feature and they are still having issues there or maybe just the sensors for the paddles aren’t very good as they’ve done that before. Though in this instance if they work straight away after unplugging and replugging I’m not sure it’s that.

It does seem odd they are the only thing that stops working, perhaps they are on a separate board because you’d expect the whole thing to stop working, are you sure nothing else at all goes? Try asking Fanatec if it’s separate or Simon at SRM is currently looking at converting them so he’s probably opened one up and would be more willing to tell you.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

This steering wheel is not compatible with the ClubSport Wheel bases V1 and V1.5 for electronic reasons.

This also has me curious, maybe it’s just the conversion hub you are using?

In order to operate this product, a compatible Fanatec Wheel Base (not included) is mandatory!

And this is where I think they may just blame you setup.

From SRM: https://www.simracingmachines.com/WebShop/fanatec-mclaren-wheel-conversion-notes

Is that the firmware you are using or the official one? Seems to be custom firmware for the rim itself.

 

[anton_Chez]

I have never seen that page. I am reading it now....

Thanks!

Hmm, seems that I cannot fine tune the bite point on mine? Perhaps there was another firmware update that I missed?

Edit: Never mind, had it on the wrong dial setting. Needs to be on mode B. It does work.

Pretty frustrating but anyway, will try for a solution. If not, just use the rim without them, reliably anyway. Race starts should still be doable.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

I have never seen that page. I am reading it now....

Thanks!

Hmm, seems that I cannot fine tune the bite point on mine? Perhaps there was another firmware update that I missed?

Edit: Never mind, had it on the wrong dial setting. Needs to be on mode B. It does work.

Pretty frustrating but anyway, will try for a solution. If not, just use the rim without them, reliably anyway. Race starts should still be doable.

Yeh troubleshooting issues is always so time consuming and annoying. I’ve spent the best part of an hour trying to work out why I can’t get auto engine RPM working properly in Dirt 4 with it giving me a silly range of 1-700 and just ended up turning it off completely when I found no answers!