Thanks for the suggestions. I did use some switch contact cleaner on the pins and the QR side, and it does seem to have settled down and be allowing Hi-Torque.
That button tho is a problem I did think I could swap a couple of buttons around on the wheel but my soldering skills aren't up to it I think - it's very fine points, and I'd make a hash of it. I'm not going to scrap it though - I love the wheel and had fitted carbon SRS magnetic shifters, so for now it's staying.
I did think I could pick up a McLaren wheel but of course most of them have the QR1 Lite, which defeats the purpose, and I'm slightly nervous that the wheel won't be such good quality lol as the carbon F1.
I'll hang in there some more meantime and watch for bargains.
I had an F1 carbon for a month and the quality is definitely a step above the McLaren!
It's metal, the buttons are tight, metal QR.
It was too small for me though, so I sold it.
The McLaren has better ergonomics, being the 1:1 replica of the real wheel.
But it's full plastic, buttons make rattle noises when you shake the wheel etc.
The shifters are a mixed bag. V1 was pretty awful and I had to get it repaired due to the known flaws (missing shifts and buttons).
Sold it and got the V2 when it came out.
Shifters are quite good but still nowhere near some srs magnetic paddles.
And the qr lite has some little play on my csw 2.5... I tested a csl DD and it had a lot of play.. Not great to be honest.
On the csw it's ok due to the rubber ring on the shaft. The csl DD doesn't have that, so it's clunky...
So yeah, I'm happy to hear that you got the high-torque mode back to work and will keep your rim!
Maybe you can find some electronics repair shop near you?
If you take the wheel apart for them, it shouldn't cost much I'd guess!