Im a week into this game with no prior experience to bike racing games. I play with all assists on easy. But then I won all the races with 4 seconds + so I changed to medium. My best place is 14th. How is this possible? I just won my first easy race without auto breaks. Any tips on how to improve? I read up that understeering is solved by going to gear one because auto gears keeps it in two, which works for me. THanks in advance!
MGP14 Difficulty
- Thread starter Draiko
- Start date
Short answer: practice.
Long, incomplete answer, but just to get you started:
I don't know how much experience you have with racing sims but they tend to have a steep learning curve. I've been playing bike sims since SBK 2011 and I'm still learning.
I recommend starting with the slower Moto3 class. The slower speed allows you to focus on lines in order to get fast. Being able to set good lines is a must as you move up the classes.
When I learn a new track, I use ideal trajectory to get a general sense of braking markers, turn in points, gears, etc. Then, the ideal trajectory comes off because it becomes a crutch.
Then I put in laps, a lot of laps, followed by practice races because it's one thing to develop my own line, but there's a lot to be learned from shadowing the AI to see where they are strong and weak so that I can improve upon my line and see potential areas that could result in a collision. Not every corner is a passing corner. It's a race, not a hotlapping session, and it's more important to finish the race rather than go for the fastest laps.
I recommend manual gear and manual tuck because it gives me better control of the bike.
If I'm coming into a corner too hot, I can downshift a little faster and use the engine braking to slow me down quicker to compensate. Of course, if I'm already downshifting as fast as possible on a regular basis, then I'll have no reserve for those oh **** moments. Also, sometimes my corner speed will be considerably slower than the AI if I downshift too quickly.
Manual tuck allows you to lean off the bike during cornering which tightens up the turn and allows you to put more throttle down. Tuck once you hit the straight though or the aero drag will slow your acceleration and top speed.
Steering, throttle, and braking should be on analog controls. As such, don't treat them like on-off switches. Use the full range and apply gradually.
Make adjustments to TCS and bike settings as you gain more experience. Some tracks I find I set faster laps with a little TCS, while no TCS work better with other tracks. TCS can be helpful for some corners and put the power down smoother and faster, while reducing the skidding/sliding that hinders acceleration. I haven't done much experimentation with bike settings other than gearing but I'd like to start messing around with cornering adjustments soon.
Using the slowest bike (I prefer the competition), TCS medium (more consistent laps, at least for this track), pro physics, realistic AI, heavy damage, and tire wear:
Long, incomplete answer, but just to get you started:
I don't know how much experience you have with racing sims but they tend to have a steep learning curve. I've been playing bike sims since SBK 2011 and I'm still learning.
I recommend starting with the slower Moto3 class. The slower speed allows you to focus on lines in order to get fast. Being able to set good lines is a must as you move up the classes.
When I learn a new track, I use ideal trajectory to get a general sense of braking markers, turn in points, gears, etc. Then, the ideal trajectory comes off because it becomes a crutch.
Then I put in laps, a lot of laps, followed by practice races because it's one thing to develop my own line, but there's a lot to be learned from shadowing the AI to see where they are strong and weak so that I can improve upon my line and see potential areas that could result in a collision. Not every corner is a passing corner. It's a race, not a hotlapping session, and it's more important to finish the race rather than go for the fastest laps.
I recommend manual gear and manual tuck because it gives me better control of the bike.
If I'm coming into a corner too hot, I can downshift a little faster and use the engine braking to slow me down quicker to compensate. Of course, if I'm already downshifting as fast as possible on a regular basis, then I'll have no reserve for those oh **** moments. Also, sometimes my corner speed will be considerably slower than the AI if I downshift too quickly.
Manual tuck allows you to lean off the bike during cornering which tightens up the turn and allows you to put more throttle down. Tuck once you hit the straight though or the aero drag will slow your acceleration and top speed.
Steering, throttle, and braking should be on analog controls. As such, don't treat them like on-off switches. Use the full range and apply gradually.
Make adjustments to TCS and bike settings as you gain more experience. Some tracks I find I set faster laps with a little TCS, while no TCS work better with other tracks. TCS can be helpful for some corners and put the power down smoother and faster, while reducing the skidding/sliding that hinders acceleration. I haven't done much experimentation with bike settings other than gearing but I'd like to start messing around with cornering adjustments soon.
Using the slowest bike (I prefer the competition), TCS medium (more consistent laps, at least for this track), pro physics, realistic AI, heavy damage, and tire wear:
Last edited:
Today i made quite some progress... I downgraded to moto3 to ktm red bull, i play on medium difficulty, standard physics no auto brakes no steering help, not sure what joint brakes do but its on. And then auto tuck in and full tcs. 
semi auto transmission. Any tips? My best is fourth so far
semi auto transmission. Any tips? My best is fourth so far
in my opinion it is always best to go for the highest difficulty and realism level, because even when you win races, every time you up the difficulty you are faced with a new challenge. Another problem Milestone has, the behavior of A.I. and the general feeling of the physics model does not really work on lower difficulty levels. It is so downgraded that its got nothing to do with a real bike.
Every bike has a front and a rear brake, most riders use the front but when braking off long straights they activate the rear brake as well. "Joint Braking" means that both brakes are always engaging at the same time, also not good. Honestly, here is what I have always done since playing MotoGP.
Settings:
A.I.: Realistic
Physics: Pro
Gears: Manual
Tuck-In: Automatic
And that was quite the challenge, but once I got the hang of it, the experience became so much more rewarding. Same as helmet cam, makes you wanna quit playing fairly soon, but with time, there you go.
As mentioned, when you do not set everything to realistic except for AUTO TUCK IN, you are dealing with abnormal coding from Milestone. If you mess with data.mix in lower levels I am never happy with the results. Giovaneveternao did a great job with his mod!! But, I only edit data.mix with highest realism and I see the results work out. I have posted shots before, but it is looking very good now for Moto3. Moto2 is not that difficult to edit as all bikes have the same engine from Honda. MotoGP I am adjusting lap times, aggressiveness, etc. and the current Championship Standings reflect the real life ones exactly. Except that Crutchlow is 11th rather than 13th, but that is because every race is different and incidents happen, which I am also glad about.
Every bike has a front and a rear brake, most riders use the front but when braking off long straights they activate the rear brake as well. "Joint Braking" means that both brakes are always engaging at the same time, also not good. Honestly, here is what I have always done since playing MotoGP.
Settings:
A.I.: Realistic
Physics: Pro
Gears: Manual
Tuck-In: Automatic
And that was quite the challenge, but once I got the hang of it, the experience became so much more rewarding. Same as helmet cam, makes you wanna quit playing fairly soon, but with time, there you go.
As mentioned, when you do not set everything to realistic except for AUTO TUCK IN, you are dealing with abnormal coding from Milestone. If you mess with data.mix in lower levels I am never happy with the results. Giovaneveternao did a great job with his mod!! But, I only edit data.mix with highest realism and I see the results work out. I have posted shots before, but it is looking very good now for Moto3. Moto2 is not that difficult to edit as all bikes have the same engine from Honda. MotoGP I am adjusting lap times, aggressiveness, etc. and the current Championship Standings reflect the real life ones exactly. Except that Crutchlow is 11th rather than 13th, but that is because every race is different and incidents happen, which I am also glad about.
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