CSR pedals (Non Elite, non Load cells) connected to PC rig or TM TS PC racer wheelbase

[nolive721]

Hello,

As posted on another forum, I confess that I am not completely happy with my recent Purchase of CSL Elite wheel with the standard P1 rim. Maybe I was expecting too much but I feel the wheel being bit sluggish and not very reactive against over-steer situations.

I am considering to buy a Thrustmaster TS PC wheel instead since its damn cheap here in japan these days but would like to keep my FANATEC CSR pedals (Non ELITE, Non Load cell) since they are still running strong.

Do you know any product/adapter that would allow to get them either connected to my PC via USB?

what about connecting them directly to the Thrustmaster wheelbase through the RJ12 port hoping that the signal woudl be recognized?

Not very optimistic it would work that way lets be honest so maybe getting a board between the TM wheel and the pedals to get them to work together?

any advice/guidance is appreciated.

thanks so much

Olivier

 

[super_gt]

Could you link the adapter you bought or point me in the right direction?

https://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/sim-racing-hardware-accessories/clubsport-usb-adapter-eu.html

 

[nolive721]

yes as I mentioned its the Clubsport USB adaptor https://www.fanatec.com/ja-en/sim-racing-hardware-accessories/clubsport-usb-adapter-japan.html
I plugged the adaptor on USB2 and USB3 ports and it was working on both

just had to flash the firmware for pedals accessories in Fanatec control panel and job done! your CSR pedals will appear as CSL Elite ones but gas,brake and clutch will operate as they should

I dont want to blame Fanatec techsupport because they,and teh Sales team, had been helpful when I was not happy with the CSL Elite kit I had bought before going to the TS PC racer but yes least I can say that their answer about CSR pedals compatibility was rather vague

I took the gamble anyway because I would have bought the CSL Elite 2 pedals set if this USB adaptor had not been working with teh CSR pedals since you need it to make the CSL Elite pedals stand alone on the PC and the TM wheel base combined altogether

Might be doing that at some point when the CSR pedals are on their way out

Since you are mentioning the RC shocks mod for the CSR, do you mind sharing some pics at how you mounted these shocks on the pedals set because that could be my next DIY activity once I am finished with putting some buttkickers pucks on my PLAYSEAT

 

[llcamino]

Thanks for the info. I realized you had included the link after I hit send. I have ordered the cable even though I may be a little way out from ordering a new wheel base.

As far as flashing the firmware....how do I do this? Will the fanatec properties immediately recognize the CSR with the USB cable?


For my RC mod I just ordered a set of 100mm (maybe 110mm) shocks from Amazon. Then using some small wood screws (probably 12mm long) I had laying around, I screwed them directly into the pedal base. I used a center punch to make a small dimple and then screwed in by hand. I probably only screwed them in about 3mm to get them to hold.


For the top I used a screw and nut I had laying around and put it through the top unused spring hole. It just has to be long enough to get through both sides of the pedal shaft and the shocks, and thin enough to fit through the shock eyelets. I would suggest mounting the top bolt first, finding the angle you want and then making the place you want to screw in the bottom. You may see an extra hole on the base in my picture. I had to change the location when I changed the spring angle to change the amount of travel in the pedal. I hope this helps.

I had another idea about adding the load cell brake pedal but that's for a later post.

 

[nolive721]

thats great, thanks for sharing.
I have seen similar mods on the internet.my CSR pedals are inverted and mounted on a PLAYSEAT EVOLUTION but basically I am sure I can apply the same method than you did.I have the brake spring set pretty hard and honestly I am happy as it is but yes I am curious to test how the damper would improve further the pedal feeling

as per the Clubsport adapter, just follow the download page with the 311 drivers and when you plug the pedals in, this will show as Club Sport then you flash the latest firmware for CSL Elite and you will get virtual CSL Elite pedals instead of your real CSR ones

 

[llcamino]

Thanks for that update. I will get the cable in a few days and try it out. I think I actually saw the mod on this site originally. I'm not sure if it works better or if it's all in my head. I too have my pedal spring pretty stiff. I've never used load cell before, but I think this is as close as we can get without spending the cash. This mod makes my brain think "pressure" instead of "distance" which from what I have read is the biggest reason for load cell.

I was actually wondering if a single CSL Elite LC pedal could be used to replace the CSR brake. If the base of the CSL Elite is not too long, it could probably be mounted in the CSR base. Then I would have to find a way to adapt the small white plugs of my current throttle and clutch to RJ12 and plug then in to the CSL Elite LC board. (I'd love to be able to use my perfectly good potentiometer gas and clutch)
I asked Fanatec about this and they said no because the board is different. (They are good about responding, but judging by your experience with their answer about the cable, I suspect they arent putting much thought into helping us keep our old products.) But since the pedals are just a simple Potentiometer, would the new board even know they were different pedals if you could get the connection plug adapted?

Or I just save up for real pedals....

 

[nolive721]

I think having seen somewhere that the csr PCB is different from the newer CSL
i dont think you would get the pedal recognized even if you managed to convert the csl wiring to the csr pcb
I dont want to be pessimistic too much because my cable experience showed it worked where Fanatec couldnt tell but...

 

[AJ McDaddy]

USB adapter for sale here:
https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/fanatec-usb-adaptor-uk.166216/#post-2934887

 

[llcamino]

Thanks for the help. I received my cable today and was able to get it working. Just in time because I'm about to throw my Fanatec 911 GT3 RS out the window because of its poor centering. I've taken it apart and cleaned both sensors that deal with centering to no avail. It will be 5-10 degrees off to the left on the front straight on one lap, then 5-10 degrees off to the right the next. If it is centered on a straight you can feel it fighting itself hopping between left and right centering. Are thrustmaster better about centering? I've always thought this wheel was a little sluggish, very slow to show over steer, and slow to change directions. Quick left-right chicanes are not fun at all.
I was thinking about the t300rs base. The biggest complaints I've read about it are the over heating. Does anyone know if the constant fan on mode helps with this?

 

[nolive721]

Its 8am here in japan so on my way to work
Will give you some views on fanatec vs thrustmaster later tonight

 

[nolive721]

hello again
I had shared a review comparison (post 58) between my current TS PC Racer vs the XBOX CSL Elite in this thread

https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/thrustmaster-ts-pc-issues.162095/page-3

I dont what is your budget but I went a year ago from a 11yr old DFGT to a FANATEC CSR bought 2nd hand because I wanted to try a belt driven wheel

It was good, and as you know I kept the pedal, bu the wheel was starting to show its age with some noticeable notchy/cogging effect that was becoming too much unpleasant in some sims

then I decided to give the TM 300RS GT a try (around 350USD equivalent bought New), it was good on the FFB side but the fan was noisy and the overall build quality wasn't there

Then since the FANATEC CSL Elite for PS4 was praised, I decided to take a risk and buy the XBOX version since the PS4 is not officially licensed here in Japan (thank you SONY....)

you will read my detailed comments but in a nuttshell, wheel was too much sluggish and the Rim was not looking really quality product and I had few issues with it from the get go (although FANATEC Sales team had been great at trying to help) so decided to go for a full Refund and ordered the TS PC with the Open wheeler alcantara rim that I got at a steal price here of 380USD equivalent

Hope that helps with your choice

 

[llcamino]

Thanks for the info. The t300rs with either F1 or 599 alcantera is more budget (marriage) friendly. I dont know if I can drop the $500USD on the ts-pc. The CSL Elite would be in between the 2 in price, but I don't know how much better it is than the current fanatec wheel that I currently have, which I'm now struggling with. It seems like fanatec used the same centering mechanism as in the 911 GT3.

 

[nolive721]

wow.Are you in the US?
I thought that Japan was a rip off with imported stuff but I understand you are reluctant to buy the TS PC if it can only be found for 500USD

word of caution though, the T300Rs wasn't a massive step up from my CSR. Better yes but not enough for me to keep it

 

[llcamino]

Thanks. Yes, I'm in the US. The cheapest I can find the TS-PC for is $499. Ibwas worried the t300 was on par with the Fanatec I own. I personally hate the aesthetics and buttons of the Fanatec 911 GT3 (who wants to drive a race car with a road car looking steering wheel?). But I may just have to deal with it for now while I watch for a price drop on the ts-pc.

 

[RasmusP]

Since you'll be waiting for a while anyway, you might want to have an eye on used V2 or V2.5 Fanatec bases.
They seem to either break under warranty or hold forever. With the Podium series hitting the market soon I guess many Fanatec users will try to sell their current clubsport bases.

Don't consider the V1 though, that one is a lot weaker!
CSL and TS-PC use tooth belts and you can feel the teeth moving. Also quite "loud" turning them.

I ordered 2 TS-PC before buying my V2.5 and I really liked the FFB. Not that much to play around with the settings and not that much headroom force wise but all games felt really decent!
Sadly the Ferrari rim made cracking noises over every bump and the coil whine of the base drove me insane.
The v2.5 is a clear step ahead. And more expensive of course...
It's more directly, a lot smoother since it uses V-belts and has enough headroom for any FFB scenario. You have a "base resistance" setting, called drift mode. Which goes from -5 to 0 (positive values are insanely stupid imo) where -4 is basically the resistance of the ts-pc.
I mainly use -2 for racing, -5 for road cars in AC. And you got a smoothing setting. At 100% gravel vibration will feel like actually hitting the stones with your bare hands, 0% will be sluggish as heck.
I mainly use 60-90%.

Anyway these are the two advantages of the V2 and V2.5 above the ts-pc. I loved the rim thickness of the TS-PC though!

Just wanted to give some input. You'll be happy with the TS-PC for sure if you ever buy one and you'll be a bit more happier when spending more money on the Fanatec base. Just don't buy the CSL with it's optical position encoder!

You can read a lot of bad things about Fanatec reliability but I know 3 people who have the V2 for years now and never had any issue with them!

 

[llcamino]

Thanks for the input. I kind of wrote off the CSL because it has the same centering mechanism as the one that is currently failing on me. Plus Fanatec Rims are pricey....probably for good reason.
I will keep my eye out for v2.5 though. I guess I should monitor the availability of Podiums, as this will dictate V2.5 availability