Sorry, wall of text incoming
Wiring & Connectors:
Just make sure the positive and negatives you use in the speakon connector are the same positive and negatives you use on the other end of the cable for the bananna plugs going into the ADX.
I usually use Red as positive from my hifi days, so if you have the colour coded or ridged half of the speaker cable screwed into the positive connector inside the speakon connector, make sure you put the red colour coded bananna plug on that side of the speaker cable too, and plug that red colour coded bananna plug into the red colour coded socket of the ADX.
The reason for this is to ensure the speaker connected via that speaker cable is "in phase". If you somehow wire it wrong up you can just swap the coloured sheathes of the bananna plugs to correct the error, and plug them back into the ADX the correct way round.
The red/black colour XLR sockets are the same sort of thing. One XLR is channel A, and one is channel B. Channel B on my amp is for the ADX on my pedals, and A is the ADX on the back of my seat. If you get them mixed up, just swap the XLR sockets round the other way.
ADX and Frequency Behaviour:
You will find that both ADX will behave a bit differently when you mount them on your rig, and different frequencies may feel weak, others strong, and some (mainly around 40hz) may be strong enough to almost shake your rig to bits and shake the teeth out of your skull if the volume is strong enough! Trust me, I almost code-browned my chair when I tried 40hz with a test tone generator :-(
The great thing about the Behringer amp is that you can alter the gain (input volume) independently for each channel using the dials on the front of the amp, but you can also use the DSP function to cut out frequencies above 150hz completely (a low-pass filter to let only the useful lower frequencies through) to stop the ADX singing along to whatever audio you might put through them, but you can use Parametric EQ to tone down the db level (volume) the 40hz frequency area to stop them being quite so violent.
The ADX are rated from 20hz to 100hz, and 40hz seems to be their strongest point. 10hz signals will feel weak, 20hz will feel a bit more "there", 30hz is stronger and maybe a bit buzzy, 40hz is absolutely crazy, 50hz is a bit less crazy, and they get less strong as you get closer to 100hz. Anything above 100hz won't really register much.
It will take a bit of messing about with the amp functions to get used to what does what, and some googling to find out what certain terms mean. You may also want to look at isolating parts of your rig that may vibrate a lot and cause unwanted noise, pings, reverberations or just outright shaking.
Isolating Your Rig:
This is important, but not very obvious. Constant vibrations will cause certain issues. Tactile feedback is a noisy hobby, and things generally don't like to be shaken constantly for prolonged periods of time.
Anything that gets loose will need some regular tightening up. You may want to order some thin rubber and neoprene off ebay to dampen vibrations in certain areas of your rig.
On my GT OMEGA Art chassis I put some 1mm thick neoprene between the support arms, and the wheel support tray to stop my G920 wheel housing resonating, the noise was annoying as hell. The G920 pedals also resonated at certain frequencies.
I put some 6mm adhesive backed neoprene between the seat support and the seat itself to stop the ADX energy leaking out of the seat and into the rig. I also got some impact resistant feet designed to stop washing machines skipping across the kitchen floor, and put them under the castors under my rig to isolate it from the rest of the room.
I also got some acrylic washers and put them between the nuts and bolts holding the wheel tray to the support arms.
I got some thick rubber, cut into squares, carved a hole out of the center with a stanley blade, and used them like washers for the bolts securing the seat support base to the horizontal struts in the chassis base, again to isolate the rig from the room and keep as much ADX energy in the seat structure as possible.
If vibrations leak into the floor it's energy your feet and seat don't get to feel. And it annoys the neighbours or family in other rooms.
Your rig may well behave completely different to mine due to different construction, materials and the equipment you have mounted on it.
