Any one looking for Behringer nx1000d.. jump on this deal!

what to look for while tuning
Tuning shakers is quite like tuning subwoofers,
in that the main goal is typically to dial down response peaks (resonances)
which helps avoiding tactile signals mostly feeling the same.
In audio, that is called "one-note bass".

Advertised graphs for shaker and exciter frequency responses
are typically in free air, which differs from responses when anchored to masses.

Some folks tune by trial and error. To tune methodically,
instead of audio microphones to measure sound pressure levels,
contact microphones are glued to whatever is being shaken.
The same free software which does a good job for this is REW,
Room Equalization Wizard.

A piezo contact microphone element for use with shakers was described here:
Sensor 20-pack arrived from Amazon 3 days after ordering; ~ 10mm diameter:
View attachment 434125
Larger ones may be more sensitive,
but these will be easy to mount e.g. on pedals and steering hub..
@ US 26 cents, they can be considered consumables.
Previous audio work mostly employed macOS; still sorting Windows 10 Sound limitations.
An old faithful of Windows sound card oscilloscope software is Winscope, but:
  • obsolete help file format cannot be easily used in Windows 10 or 8.1
  • seemingly lacks input flexibility; perhaps uses default source, but has not worked for me (3 sound cards, including VR HMD)
Visual Analyzer is working better:
  • selectable input
  • simultaneous XY and spectral displays
Downloaded the bare .exe works, but excludes help file bundled in setup..
Other Windows software oscilloscopes may be easier;
I would have next tried Soundcard Oscilloscope.

Dayton Thruster is due tomorrow;
first accelerometer experiments will compare it to rumble motor (farewell!)

... and those contact microphones were used in this thread:
Has anyone compared these for the same application? Despite quite different specifications,
they do not seem to feel (or sound) tremendously different.
The puck's response is specified from 20-80Hz, but is clearly audible above 800Hz.
Meanwhile, the thruster's resonance is specified as 395Hz, which seems about right for its electrical resonance,
but acoustic/tactile resonance seems much lower, depending on to what it is attached.

Dayton's graph shows DAEX32EP response dropping 15 dB in the octave from 140 to 70Hz,
while their DAEX32U graph shows only half that drop, while Dayton's DAEX25CT graph shows a 5dB rise.
 
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Finally finished my initial setup of my 4 mini lfes. Just need to tinker with settings now..Amps work great. But they are loud so i picked these up.
20220412_214016.jpg
Going to install them tonight maybe. Here is the amps in there final resting place.... maybe..
20220412_214057.jpg

also i picked these up for anyone who gets this amp and needs feet. These fit perfect.
20220412_214042.jpg
 
Hook both of mine up yesterday, all working perfectly!
Now just need to learn how to take advantage of the DSP.
I have read the forums, still do not know how to tune, meaning what to look for while tuning...
Different people have different approaches.
Here are my thoughts , with some tips and findings....

Some will rely on a manufacturer's listed specs/data as a way to then calculate or give a theroy on what optimal settings may be. I have seen people go as far to determine what power should be supplied to an amplifer as an optimal setting to a transducer's listed specs.

The first problem is listed specs for amps and transducers are not often, what we find to be highly accurate in real usage. The optimal amplification level used for that persons chosen tactile or how they have it installed, may be reached well below the calculated/supposed optimal setting of the amp. How the unit is installed and if the rig uses isolation are quite likely going to be bigger factors to improved or optimising performance. Potentially more than a specific amp level setting or in some regards to applying DSP.

4 units on corners of a 8020 rig is one of the worst yet most popular approaches to installing. Still today many people have such, yet when we look into what this really does, we see the failings it has.


Measurements in a seat?
With discussions of this in the past, some members here were behind this approach months ago. While I questioned its benefits.... I don't know but would ask, where are DSP settings that were configured based on this approach and with those believing it was a good idea with the measurements from a pickup that they implemented? Quite simply, many months later with several forum members here having an interest in this approach, what benefits did such testing bring and how was that work continued?

Dayton for their own readings I believe used their own mics but highlighted that measurements are very much going to differ based on the materials or objects they are attached to.

So the problem with this is listed specs/data are not necessarily representative with real-world usage and especially with how we are using transducers/exciters or what ways they are being installed.

You have the important factors, like what materials they are being attached to. After this you then have the potential for very different effects mixes that are being output when you are racing with various combinations of effects...

all with potentially different frequencies
all with potentially different volumes
all with potentially different timings/operations

Then combine these factors, based on a rig, depending on the installation of 1 - multiple units installed.

Due to all these scenarios, I found little benefits are going to be gained if seeking to take measurements from my or someone elses seat. The reason is, the seat they may have conducted tests on. We have to first determine what materials it is made of (as a test bed) and if it is representative of a typical race seat most people use? So before even digging deeper into all these points highlighted. The testbed solution presented, did not even represent the most common seats used with sim racing, from the early work done. Therefore beyond it being an interest for some to follow or take part in, I personally seen it as rather limited in what it may achieve as an experiment or offering reliable data for others.

So since then, I am not aware if such tests have been conducted on several seat types, within playing a sim and with multiple examples of effects operational at one time? Doing real scenario tests and applying this to single unit and multi-unit installations?

Let's be real here.... In truth, you could have hundreds of measurement possibilities, trying to cover these options.

I would suggest you don't need any measurements but feel free to do what you want to do. For me, it's quite simple, "you" the user become the sensor, to determine how/what/when "you" adjust different volumes for the various effects "you" may be using. Taking into account how those combine, boost or soften the felt sensation of other effect layers.

Without even changing frequencies, the "output mix" that you feel in the seat from your effects running real-time in the sim may differ on your seat to the exact same settings on someone elses. Not only this but your preference to "what feels good" may differ or vary to someone else as well, even with nice operating effects being used.

With the DSP, when you have a direction in what to do. It lets you control how your transducer/exciter operates with specific frequencies, yet it is still bound within its own operational capabilities. Essentially the DSP lets you reduce peaks, to then help to try to boost other frequencies so that you gain some additional detail.

It's not always about trying to boost even more how much bass you feel from the already peak frequencies that unit you have already delivers. This is the approach of some, to try to even boost the peaks, further limiting the range you feel from the effects. One of the goals is to enrich the bass but do so to increase detail as well, then to also control problematic or irritating reverb.

It also depends on the unit and the role you may apply to the unit within your installation and how you would configure its crossover/eq.

To finish off, I would recommend using an RPM that operates within a sim that generates from the lowest-highest frequencies your unit is capable of using. You could have multiple layers, to let you enable/disable these within tests for determining the output more in line with those frequencies only. In applying this as an approach, you may discover....

the frequencies your unit/installation seems to work best with
the frequencies your unit/installation performs worst with
the frequencies your unit/installation may have reverb issues with

With DSP, we then apply the EQ for these specific frequencies to find a level that lets the user still apply nice volume control settings but achieve good low bass, improved mid or higher bass detail and reduce or eliminate any reverb.....

Plastic Based Tub Seats / Carbon Fibre / Aluminium GS5 / Office Chairs / Wicker Chairs / Real Car Seats and many more each may have or require their own tuning. Quite simply if you dont have a more closed/fixed approach to installation or isolation factors then DSP settings from one configuration may not necessarily be much benefit on your own.

Testing single frequencies in the method some people apply, is not reflective of how you are using Simhub or how it always operates, this is also why test-tone generators are limited in some ways for trying to use those to optimise your tactile for Simhub.

Personally, if its any help I found it best to tune and configure within a Sim and effects you are wanting to use.
 
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Sorry you wrote all this to explain do what's best for you! :)
But alas that is what I am doing so far, with pretty good results.
As always thanks for your explanations and time sir!
 
Sorry you wrote all this to explain do what's best for you! :)
But alas that is what I am doing so far, with pretty good results.
As always thanks for your explanations and time sir!

Its good to do your own testing, partly as we still see many people with very different installations. So optimal settings can and will differ quite a bit...

What amplification is needed, has much more to do with how/where the unit is installed, as this will determine how much of the actual vibration generated from the unit your installation is maybe wasting. Also then if the user has DSP or EQ boost applied for low frequencies.

What DSP is potentially needed is affected by the installation/isolation and rig/seat materials but taking into account the unit being used. Of course some units offer rather narrow operational windows regards the frequencies they work best within, thats why its good to determine this with your own units using a method like the rpm testing.

Looking at the images above I would estimate that Gregs rig is possibly wasting a lot of tactile energy, just based on the volume knob positions he has? I would expect someone with the same amp/units but with isolation and units installed closer or directly to pedal/seat mounts and applying a decent DSP setting would use much less.

Some things to take into consideration:
I assume some of you are going to seek to use these with the larger BK at some point?

Nobody I know of sees many benefits in trying to use Buttkickers rated min/max wattages. Those were certainly not based on sim rig installations and do not take into account software like Simhub that can generate much more continuous low bass than traditional audio sources.

Besides that, they are not accurate with what we are doing, proof of this is people able to use the large BK Concert rated at min 400 watt with probably half of that available (RMS) on the 1000 NXD and getting a sufficient experience from it. I've tested for several months dual BK CT on a seat powered by the 1000 series with no problems or did I feel it was lacking. Simply because with the added DSP being applied we can reach a good performance already with these units.

Further evidence of this with wattage factors should be noted by other source material and usage case scenarios like a drum throne. Fischer Amps sell an amplifer specifically for the BK CT and its max output is at 250w @2ohms. Well below what is stated in the manuals min recommendations....
See

So why such wattage ratings in the manuals?
The first point is that they don't state they are RMS based values.

My guess is, originally when these products were launched. BK had their own amplifier (BK 1000N) on sale that was rated with similar high-listed wattages. Marketing perhaps, to get people to buy their own amp (no longer available)? Few affordable amps at that time would of had such listed specs and been 2 ohms compatible but determine for yourselves if such is plausible and nothing really to do with performance with these units.

BK 1000-N
  • 1000 Watts @ 4 ohms
  • 1900 Watts @ 2 ohms

When you try to apply DSP to boost low frequencies and then also use increased wattages with Simhub effects you are very quickly going to discover piston pang is an issue. Not just on the mini models, but also on the larger ones too. The BK will reach its peak performance limits, well before the listed operational wattages.

I have bought 2x of these for powering my 8x Large BK I will install, and with no DSP applied. I can't run them at their 500W max, without piston issues. With DSP being applied, I need much less wattage.


Golden Rule
You only feel tactile in your connected body regions, therefore mostly in seat/pedals.
Having tactile flow all over an outer rig frame or corners does nothing to enhance the potential immersion. Isolated seat and pedal sections ALWAYS bring improved tactile regardless of what you are using and I would recommend anyone with 4x Mini BK to sell them, and focus on dual larger BK units with one for seat/pedals and apply even basic isolation of some form.
 
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LOL, from me.... I sort of am joking... I do have 9 though... My comment was in response to the comment above mine :)

Pffffffff....

As the number to represent a new beginning or chapter....

Clearly, 8 is optimal (lol) but only when you find a way to partner the 8 BK with 8 TST units and follow the examples of several guys now running with 8 EXC on a seat. :whistling:

I just need an 8 day week to get the time to start working on it again, ohhhhh and at my rate of progress, maybe 8 more years to finish it... :(
 
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Haha ah yeah, got it now. Definitely agree with the BK units running into physical limitations well before any lack of wattage becomes an issue. As long as there is a decent amount of power going to them, which will vary greatly between what amps people choose to run them on, they will outperform their power requirements very quickly. In other words, for sim racing, with Simhub, the amount of feedback you're going to get from it even at just the minimum power requirement of 400W is very high. Not having to run a smaller amp flat out is probably the only advantage to having a large excess of wattage available.

I'm bridging my BK Concert now on the 1000D. But by no means was it required. I was very impressed with the amount of feedback it delivered from one channel @ 2ohms. But since I can now move my 2 TST's to a dedicated 2 channel amp at 4ohms, I had a spare channel and being able to leave the input gain dial at 12 oclock is a good way to help reduce the load on it.
 
So i currently have 4 mini lfes on my rig.. 2 under my seat at the rails and 2 at the front by where the pedals mount. For the 2 under my seat, i have the seat isolated from the rig with some rubber bushings . I can feel slight separation on each side. Enough to fool my mind when going over curbs and such. The front not so much as i havent isolated the pedals yet. What would i gain from larger buttkickers. Would 1 large lfe work better than 2 minis? Especially by the pedals where separation is negligible even in a real car
 
Greg,

I don't have your answers but I am following along closely.

I currently have 2 Mini LFEs and 4 Dayton exciters. My plan was to mount 1 mini LFE to the seat bottom and the other to the Fanatec CSP V.2. pedal plate or an extension. I have several isolation optons to explore for both the seat and the pedals.

A couple of questions:

1) Assuming you can dissable or tune out (remove signal) one mini on pedal plate, would you be able to perceive the difference between one on vs. two?

2) Have you shown how you mounted and isolated your seat side minis?
 
Greg,

I don't have your answers but I am following along closely.

I currently have 2 Mini LFEs and 4 Dayton exciters. My plan was to mount 1 mini LFE to the seat bottom and the other to the Fanatec CSP V.2. pedal plate or an extension. I have several isolation optons to explore for both the seat and the pedals.

A couple of questions:

1) Assuming you can dissable or tune out (remove signal) one mini on pedal plate, would you be able to perceive the difference between one on vs. two?

2) Have you shown how you mounted and isolated your seat side minis?
So as of now, just running one in the front just decreases the overall strength of the vibration. But thats understandable since there no isolation yet. Ill try and take a good photo of the rear when i get home. I have this photo where you can kind of see it. Just some cheap Sorbothane bushings with a Neoprene strip on top of it.. And the washers for the tnut bolts have neoprene on one side




20220418_135225.jpg
 
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In a word, yes, of course the larger BK's work WAY better. You get a massive lower end, more power overall and less of the issues with physical piston bottoming out, although not entirely cured. If you ditch all 4 of the Mini LFE's and replace them with 2 BK LFE's or Concert, one at the seat and another at the pedal, you will be much better off. I've done similar, I had 2 Mini LFE's and I sold them for a Concert, a TST 239 and then into a TST 429. So currently have 3 high end units. TST 239 now sits under the pedal deck.
 
So as of now, just running one in the front just decreases the overall strength of the vibration. But thats understandable since there no isolation yet. Ill try and take a good photo of the rear when i get home. I have this photo where you can kind of see it. Just some cheap Sorbothane bushings with a Neoprene strip on top of it.. And the washers for the tnut bolts have neoprene on one side




View attachment 560119

In case you live in US and don't want to pay 200$ for the RaceBass, I would suggest you use the following items for the vibration isolation (plus whatever bolts and washers you may need):

2 x https://www.parts-express.com/ButtKicker-RI-4-PAK-Medium-Kinetic-Isolators-Set-of-5-300-9462
1651204171988.png


And

1x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B096FNP9PZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
1651204236953.png
 
  • Deleted member 1066209

@DH73

Thanks for providing those links! I've been unsuccessful in my attempts at tactile isolation, and your post has made my day. Many many thanks!
 
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