AMS 2 FFB Discussion

I just tested all settings,
RAW, informative, imersive, more FFB, lower FFB, LowForceBoost 0 40 80...
What I found was the same FFB like in pCARS2, the same damage jolt effekts, when you driving on small bumps, the over powered force, when the car are oversteering, the les details about the rear axle.
It's for me, the biggest disappointment in the year.
You don't beleive me?
Please take a seat in the StockCar or the Falcon V8, starting in Spielberg with clear wather in both games.
The detailed, RAW, real and comprehensible FFB, you are only get in AMS1. The same like rFactor2, but much more heavyer.
In rF² you feel the gene of rF². It's not like AMS but near of it.

AMS2-Beta is for me pCARS2 and i am realy sad, because my hope was realy big. So many people say "Stop! It's pCARS2! You should not beleve that it can be better!" But i say, "No, that are not SMS, they are Reiza Studios,, they have good guys, the have got Nils and he knows what he do."

What shuld i say?
I am realy sad and hopeless because that pCARS2-feeling will be not gone after the final release. If that be possible, than only with deleting it and copy paste from AMS1.
But what i know now, when you want to say, "Shut up and take my money!" Think before it. It's funny but expensive some times.

Best wiches from Germany, Manuel

I just testet the Ultima, OldStock, AJR... All the same. No Reiza-Feeling.
Kart and Caterham too. Are the 310HP Caterham damage? More than 170km/h not possible an Spielberg.

Btw.:
I am using the SimuCUBE without any damping or filterring.
But, AMS1 feels grate, too with the G27.
 

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  • Deleted member 197115

I thought the FFB had changed since June (when this video was made), so does it still hold?
It transforms from one release to another, sometimes to the better, sometimes to the worse. Plus, same as in PCars, can vary greatly from one car to another. Makes one wonder if the forces indeed delivered by just physics model or massaged afterwards to make it "feel better" for specific cars. Like GT3 for instance, Mercedes AMG FFB after all the hotfixes is quite superior to just released M6 which is vague and bland with dead center.
 
Karsten has just released the new version of Silver Raw, and it's bloody awesome. Really encourage everyone to try it out, feels like different sim altogether. :thumbsup:

Never really liked Silver Raw but gave it another shot.

Following Karsten's advice i found a setting that gives a nice, tight feeling around the middle, a good sensation of tires loading up and even enough forces to feel the limit on the brake.

And as a bonus, the soft clipping i had on some bumps and kerbs with the default ffb is also gone.

I am still slower since the latest patch (don't know why?) but at least it feels good again!
 
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  • Deleted member 963434

i cant set it up, i have set up AC, ACC and RRRE for a week now and didnt changed anything, but with AMS its different, today i again changed some settings an dont know i finally set it correctly or if i make week pause i feel weird again. thats always, im changing gain, LFB, even setting in my wheel driver, i had it set up week ago but not touched it since, today i played and i feel weird nothing like real car, still deadzone at center, and yo make turns yo feel like riding on horse and yo must hold the reins and giv horse command what to do and he do it and gives you strong ffb. i have 15 nm in wheel driver and 40 % gain in all my sims in AC, ACC RRE thats abous 6 nm and it work good in any sim but in AMS2 its so strong peaks at above 10 nm and wheel shaking, if i lower gain to 30 % thats 4,5 nm deadzone increases. and i dont like lfb cause it makes me feel center i feel slight half cm deadzone like empty space there. also in all my sims i can let off wheel at above 200 kph and it stay at center, in ams2 it start oscillating all way and im crash if let off wheel.
now i think even pCARS2 had better ffb but maybe i dont remember now
i wish it was more linear as in RRE i tell yo it has best ffb of all my sims, AC and ACC still too bouncy ffb but forces not as strong as in AMS2 and not huge deadzone. in RRE with simplest settings yo have no deadzone in any car and ffb so linear no weird weight transfer forces just pure linear force when turning and strong countersteer when slip, some may call it arcadeish but thats my most realistic sim i have.
i wish reiza make ffb comparable to raceroom, with AMS2 physics it would beat all current sims i tell yo
 
Anyone got a good custom profile for Fanatec CSW 2.5 after last patch/fix? :thumbsup:
I've been using these settings with my csw2.5

in game:
default
gain=65
lfb=15
fx=25
damp=0
menu=0

on wheel:
Sens=Auto
FEI=80
BF=75
all others=default

personally I've tried the custom sets and they may seem good to some but I just didn't like them, also if you ever have one fail it will always put that thought in the back of your head. I just try to get AMS2 as close to AMS1 and these settings are pretty close IMO.
 
i cant set it up, i have set up AC, ACC and RRRE for a week now and didnt changed anything, but with AMS its different, today i again changed some settings an dont know i finally set it correctly or if i make week pause i feel weird again. thats always, im changing gain, LFB, even setting in my wheel driver, i had it set up week ago but not touched it since, today i played and i feel weird nothing like real car, still deadzone at center, and yo make turns yo feel like riding on horse and yo must hold the reins and giv horse command what to do and he do it and gives you strong ffb. i have 15 nm in wheel driver and 40 % gain in all my sims in AC, ACC RRE thats abous 6 nm and it work good in any sim but in AMS2 its so strong peaks at above 10 nm and wheel shaking, if i lower gain to 30 % thats 4,5 nm deadzone increases. and i dont like lfb cause it makes me feel center i feel slight half cm deadzone like empty space there. also in all my sims i can let off wheel at above 200 kph and it stay at center, in ams2 it start oscillating all way and im crash if let off wheel.
now i think even pCARS2 had better ffb but maybe i dont remember now
i wish it was more linear as in RRE i tell yo it has best ffb of all my sims, AC and ACC still too bouncy ffb but forces not as strong as in AMS2 and not huge deadzone. in RRE with simplest settings yo have no deadzone in any car and ffb so linear no weird weight transfer forces just pure linear force when turning and strong countersteer when slip, some may call it arcadeish but thats my most realistic sim i have.
i wish reiza make ffb comparable to raceroom, with AMS2 physics it would beat all current sims i tell yo
Word !
 
  • Deleted member 963434

iv finally set it up like 1-2 days ago, and im sure ill stay wit tis settings for sure.
i have dd 20 nm wheel my issue was weak feel at the center and too strong when cornering also when braking. when i had this ussue i had settings 100% force in wheel driver thats 20 nm and 40% gain in AMS2 thats around 8 nm, but when i drive bmw m6 gt3 at eau rogue at spa force get to even 16 nm thats way too strong for gt3 car.
i resolved issue by setting 60 % in wheel driver thats arouns 12 nm and 60 % gain thats around 7,2 nm. now issue gone, at eau rogue bmw m6 gt3 peaks at 10 nm force, also dead center gone thats i think cause of increased gain, and too strong force when braking gone
 
  • Deleted member 963434

and one thing to mention, tey suggest to delete ams2 folder from documents after last update
 
Silver raw 30 is the go to now. If you don't like too many bumps then dampening 50, or 25

Gain 65
Lfb 50
FX 50
Dampening 50

It's the medium file, for more powerful than tx 4 nm or 5 whatever it is, use HIGH file


!!!!!Important!!!, this is how he wants it set up. Settings now adjust center, then curves.... You can blend them in.

So on my tx it's a thing of beauty.

Dampening makes all the difference and all cars good. IF you want read his first post, but now higher than 50 dampening will adjust another setting, so if it's 70 that will do 2 things.

So gain actually does turns only and lfb the center.

It's brilliant but don't forget he made an entirely new rack model virtually for this file.

It's all well done. You won't regret it, even if default is good, and default is still there for any time.

There is perfect blend for me, center is great and feel to curve is great, road is great with more detail but dampened, matches all across the range and of course the revs.

So 50? I know.... But those are default and have new meaning and it blends in wonderfully. Feels like actual rubber more than ever and what's happening in screen is felt in the wheel, so it's very detailed. Gain at 65 for this wheel is enough. One cannot expect the world from a tx but the driving experience is stunning. Takeoff, turning, bumps, inertia, it's all great.
 
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  • Deleted member 197115

Tried SR 34, it's weird, stiff (too much tire to turn resistance), and overdampened even with dynamic damper at 0.

Default is fine except numb center (still) and jolty after understeer SAT, but controls oscillation better than before.

Old Nuscorpii heavy messing 2.5 is still the best, not ideal considering it was based on older FFB implementation, but at least out of these 3 it makes the most sense, except does not control oscillation as well as the other two.

Combination of default and Heavy Messing would be close to ideal.
 
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It's 34 already with some bug fixes.

wow! the guy is a machine! fixes huh... I am happy with 30 but will do what I did with 27 and keep it round, but now I will keep 30 as backup in the folder and try 34 when I get a moment.

for my tx, and doing some harder racing trying to nail down issues as you do, i am not totally interested in games as games themselves, but I endeavor to mix up my time and efforts; i lowered my gain to 50. makes it easier to turn and whatnot without compromising anything.

Then I tried the v8s at oulton park fosters course (the shortest circular one). excellent. this dodges all those physics quirks they do as they dive deeper into the code base and probably add more values into the mix

(they do have source code and potential I assume to either add into excutable or extend modules as such or make new ones, and delve into the subsystems like drivetrain; maybe even totally change them)

Thus, I think they will keep developing the FFB to accommodate over time.
 
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Well, FFB is somewhat personal flavor after a degree. Karsten's silverRaw .36 is awesome for me and as he said it is the most promising one among other versions (Also .37 is available but didnt try it).
Besides you should adjust in game settings appropriotely which gives a starting point for ffb file to process.
Go and try with different car/tracks if you able to feel enough of slippage, brake lock etc.
 
Couple weeks ago i thought i finally found good settings for my T300RS. I was quite happy with it.
Now eeks later the feeling changed once again. And after the last update i am not 100% satisfied again :cautious:

Has anyone advice for good T300 ingame setting?

My new settings which could feel better are:
gain 75
minimum force 40
fx 50
 
Hey,
the steering feel of AM2 gives me a little laggy feel.I have to steer always a bit earlyer before i turn in a corner .It feels like the cars always slide through every corner.
In assetto Corsa Competizione the steer feels more direkt and more precision.
iss this only my opinion or is there a setting ingame to fix this slaggy steering feeling?
 
update is naturally version 45 blew me sideways 6 feet then stomped on me from a great height.

can't come up with enough superlatives for it. default also got real good, real fast.

And I use 100 gain and per-car adjust it down as needed to blend it in, and 50, 50, 50.


Hey,
the steering feel of AM2 gives me a little laggy feel.I have to steer always a bit earlyer before i turn in a corner .It feels like the cars always slide through every corner.
In assetto Corsa Competizione the steer feels more direkt and more precision.
iss this only my opinion or is there a setting ingame to fix this slaggy steering feeling?

Hm. A few things from the start to end can be up. Do you exit out to main menu and go back in when you change any settings in the ffb section? May help sometimes its madness engine/pc hardware thing. I.e do not change ffb mid-race sometimes and hope it adjusts on the fly - it may not, or it may make things too light or too heavy. It would need to exit the race and go back in, and sometimes a game restart.

Set up your settings as you want them....for the custom 45 its 100 gain for me (open wheelers) and then down to 60 for some gt3s and 75 for other types. Sometimes it needs to be 63, others 82...see? -- on a 'per-car' basis in the advanced settings menu. [part of car set up nowadays]

Have you set the wheel to its maximum in the wheel control panel so it can auto-adjust in-game? For most thrustmasters this is typically 900.

Do you TUNE cars?

Please - I do not want to sound like a total w/nker you know... I am Not, but the amount of times people say this these days... I go do a tune up post and its like its not considered a thing to do.

But if you tune the car, it will simply grip the track better in most if not all cases.

A good way to see is look through my post history to the Sigma P1...it needed a couple of adjustments for Santa cruz - then no slip, and more precision.

This tuning system is UP there with Race room (excellent and easy to follow).

If you make use of it as such, you will get great results - its very granular.

<<<<<<<<<<<____>>>>>>>>>

Example setup

<<<<<<<<<<<____>>>>>>>>>

same ffb but totally different driving - good for santa cruz, but maybe you can make it even faster, yet on another track like nurbugring its not as good...

sigma p1 at Santa Cruz


downforce is 2 and 6.

brake bias is 57 front

brake pressure is 100

front duct opening is 70% (or it will not be as efficient and aero i am guessing is already good with a p1) somehow this makes it drag that much better and is a lot more useful here and

also rear brake duct opening is 60%

front spring is 160 - helps with turn in and going over the strips wont unsettle it.

did i change rear spring hmm will check - up 1 to 190 - thus it pushes nicely around corners more.

slow bump and rebound (2 settings) are one notch lower at 6828 and 8358

drive train is 84/85 power and 55 coast

1.40 tyre pressure early in the morning, maybe can go lower. then camber came out to -2.0 at the back because tyre temps were strange and right rear was not being 'cooked up' enough.

anti roll at front was put down a notch to 140

toe touched only at front to -.4

car specific gain is down at 63% and it blended in very well with the custom 45 ffb file. default ffb will probably need no such adjustment and is serviceable/useable in of itself.

did not change ride height or anything else.

__

as always these days as of this patch - got to warm up those tyres and have a session lay down rubber for extra grip, so will be more slipery to start than later. this is why I had to go in later and change up that camber (raised it). the rear tyres as stated were not consistently hot therefore they must not be touching enough of the road. about 5 to 10 degrees difference

I like how they make you set it up per track - sure its 'home track' is probably fine maybe dont know
 
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