The latest edition of EA Sport's Formula One game, F1 24, is finally here. Many racers will take to the track using a steering wheel, but for those without one, we have assembled an F1 24 Controller Settings Guide.
If you played F1 23, many of these controller settings will be very familiar - however, a refresher will not hurt. And for those who are new to the series as well, here are our recommendations to change, rebind or recalibrate to ensure you are getting the most out of your controller in F1 24.
The button for the ERS will be bound to one of the coloured buttons on your controller. Letters for Xbox, shapes for PlayStation - usually, the four buttons on the right of your controller.
'Toggle' to 'hold'. Overtake ERS deployment options
Navigate to the settings menu, and select your compatible controller from the options you are given. From there, the option labelled 'Overtake ERS Mode' will be set to toggle. Make sure to switch it to 'Hold'. This will allow you to simply hold down the button to deploy ERS instead of having to press the button to activate and potentially forgetting to shut it off again.
The beauty of the button testing feature within F1 24's calibration menu is that you can see down to each percentage what your trigger and joysticks are doing. If you flick it to the left, right, up, down or compress it all the way and it says 100% - great! If not, you can adjust the sliders to tune out your controller's irregularities.
F1 24's controller calibration software
My left joystick was 2% stuck to the right, and my left trigger that I use to brake also showed a slight input even when not pressed. This means that when I was driving in a straight line, my car would wander to the left ever so slightly and never be entirely off the brakes. You can imagine what that did to my lap times.
Adjusting the steering linearity to combat this and making sure all the input bars show 0% when you are not interacting with the buttons is an essential process. As mentioned previously, this is a lifesaver if you are using an older or slightly worn controller.
Increasing your steering saturation will limit the amount that you have to turn your car to get it to full lock. This setting is normally kept at 0%, However, if your controller for whatever reason does not let you go to the full 100% lock, adjusting this slider can sort that issue out for you instantly.
Base controller setup
The linearity settings for the throttle, steering and brakes are essential settings to get right. They determine how smooth the curve of your input is, meaning you could have less sensitive output in the first 50% of input, then much finer output for the final 50% of input, for example. With default settings, pressing your brake trigger 50% of the way down will provide you with 50% braking force.
The linearity settings mostly come down to preference, but especially for steering and braking, upping the settings' values to 30 helps with being able to control these inputs a bit better.
Finally, the steering rate. In a similar way to linearity, the steering rate is an essential aspect of setting up F1 24 to your liking. Increasing the range will mean your steering is more sensitive and reactive, whereas lowering the slider will do the opposite and slow it down. Think of it as adding dampening to a coilover to make the compression more steady. We recommend 120 for this setting, coupled with the steering linearity setting at 30.
MFD joystick bindings
To change these bindings, make sure you unbind your look-around buttons in the main controller menu. This will allow you to assign the joystick to increase and decrease your differential and brake bias. With the virtual mirror on offer in F1 24, the need to actively move your camera left and right is virtually non-existant, especially since it can disorient you while in the heat of the battle for position.
Have you got your own settings you like to change for racing on a controller? Let us know over on X @OverTake_gg or down in the comments below!
If you played F1 23, many of these controller settings will be very familiar - however, a refresher will not hurt. And for those who are new to the series as well, here are our recommendations to change, rebind or recalibrate to ensure you are getting the most out of your controller in F1 24.
ERS Deployment
Whilst there is an option to have your ERS battery deployment set to automatic, having manual control can make managing your race strategy much more efficient. It also opens up doors to trying slightly unusual strategies regarding ERS deployment if necessary.The button for the ERS will be bound to one of the coloured buttons on your controller. Letters for Xbox, shapes for PlayStation - usually, the four buttons on the right of your controller.
'Toggle' to 'hold'. Overtake ERS deployment options
Navigate to the settings menu, and select your compatible controller from the options you are given. From there, the option labelled 'Overtake ERS Mode' will be set to toggle. Make sure to switch it to 'Hold'. This will allow you to simply hold down the button to deploy ERS instead of having to press the button to activate and potentially forgetting to shut it off again.
Trigger and Joystick Calibration
While the ERS deployment setting change is more of a quality-of-life change, the necessity to calibrate your joysticks and triggers within F1 24 cannot be understated. This is especially relevant if you are using an older controller that has 'Joystick Wandering' or something similar.The beauty of the button testing feature within F1 24's calibration menu is that you can see down to each percentage what your trigger and joysticks are doing. If you flick it to the left, right, up, down or compress it all the way and it says 100% - great! If not, you can adjust the sliders to tune out your controller's irregularities.
F1 24's controller calibration software
My left joystick was 2% stuck to the right, and my left trigger that I use to brake also showed a slight input even when not pressed. This means that when I was driving in a straight line, my car would wander to the left ever so slightly and never be entirely off the brakes. You can imagine what that did to my lap times.
Adjusting the steering linearity to combat this and making sure all the input bars show 0% when you are not interacting with the buttons is an essential process. As mentioned previously, this is a lifesaver if you are using an older or slightly worn controller.
Increasing your steering saturation will limit the amount that you have to turn your car to get it to full lock. This setting is normally kept at 0%, However, if your controller for whatever reason does not let you go to the full 100% lock, adjusting this slider can sort that issue out for you instantly.
Base controller setup
The linearity settings for the throttle, steering and brakes are essential settings to get right. They determine how smooth the curve of your input is, meaning you could have less sensitive output in the first 50% of input, then much finer output for the final 50% of input, for example. With default settings, pressing your brake trigger 50% of the way down will provide you with 50% braking force.
The linearity settings mostly come down to preference, but especially for steering and braking, upping the settings' values to 30 helps with being able to control these inputs a bit better.
Finally, the steering rate. In a similar way to linearity, the steering rate is an essential aspect of setting up F1 24 to your liking. Increasing the range will mean your steering is more sensitive and reactive, whereas lowering the slider will do the opposite and slow it down. Think of it as adding dampening to a coilover to make the compression more steady. We recommend 120 for this setting, coupled with the steering linearity setting at 30.
F1 24 Recommended Controller Settings
- Steering rate: 120
- Steering Linearity: 30
- Throttle Linearity: 5
- Brake Linearity: 30
Map Your MFD Options
This is similar to the first tip in that it is a good thing to do, but not essential. The ability to change your brake bias and differential whilst out on track is a fantastic way to dial in a setup or learn where the absolute latest point you can brake for a corner is on the fly.MFD joystick bindings
To change these bindings, make sure you unbind your look-around buttons in the main controller menu. This will allow you to assign the joystick to increase and decrease your differential and brake bias. With the virtual mirror on offer in F1 24, the need to actively move your camera left and right is virtually non-existant, especially since it can disorient you while in the heat of the battle for position.
Have you got your own settings you like to change for racing on a controller? Let us know over on X @OverTake_gg or down in the comments below!
