Automobilista 2: Basic Setup Tips To Reign In Power Oversteer

AMS2 Oversteer Setup.jpg
In Version 1.6, Automobilista 2's more modern machinery appears very loose on power. Here are some setup tips to eradicate the unstable nature so you can enjoy your time behind the wheel.

Following its most recent update, Automobilista 2 is becoming more and more of a modern racing simulator, going back on the historic focus the title had previously.

Where those more vintage cars in the game do now feel rather good in most cases thanks to the version 1.6 update, we find that more modern machinery - notably the LMDh and GT3 models - can suffer from overwhelming on-power oversteer. Get on the gas out of a corner and if you were struggling for rotation before, you certainly are not any longer.

AMS2 is an official IMSA game now.

AMS2 is an official IMSA game now.

Whilst many enjoy the on-edge feel that comes with these cars that we would compare to a modern-day Red Bull F1 car that Max Verstappen can tame but mere mortals like ourselves and Sergio Perez cannot, others prefer a safer driving experience. That is even more so the case when running endurance-oriented models such as these. With that in mind, here are a few setup tips to eradicating on-power oversteer in Automobilista 2 for a less stressful time.

It's all in the Diff​

Using the throttle to help turn the car is certainly not unrealistic. To an extent. In no case do you want the tail falling out of line and giving you something extra to think about, especially in an endurance race in which tyre life is crucial.

The first thing to look at if you are struggling with on-power traction is the rear differential. In fact, Automobilista 2's standard setups are far from optimal in this regard, generally it seems the LSD does not lock enough as you apply the power, and so we must change that.

Increase the Clutch number to your LSD in AMS2 GT3 cars.

Increase the Clutch number to your LSD in AMS2 GT3 cars.

On GT3 cars, the simple fix here is to increase the number of clutches in your LSD. This will create more locking force, ensuring greater traction out of corners and preventing one wheel spinning faster than the other, providing overwhelming rotation.

LMDh setup screens however get the added benefit of coast and power ramping effects. This means you can increase the clutch setting to your heart's content all whilst reducing turn-in understeer by increasing the Coast figure. If you like the way the car feels on entry from the standard settings, forget about the clutches and simply reduce the Power Ramp setting.

LMDh cars have more diff settings.

LMDh cars have more diff settings.

We do feel that in downforce prototypes such as these, the issues are not quite as prevalent as GT cars and you are best going for this next option aboard LMDh models.

Soft is Safe​

Indeed, the on-power oversteer is not quite as eye-widening on LMDh models as it is with the GTs. Instead, we get the feeling that the prototypes are simply a bit loose all together. Certainly nothing major and even something some players will enjoy, we prefer a safe, more neutral car.

Soften the rear ARB to reduce oversteer.

Soften the rear ARB to reduce oversteer.

A simple trick we have found to keeping all four wheels pointing in the right direction in IMSA's top class is softening the Rear Anti-Roll Bar. We would recommend setting it to five clicks less than the front to begin with and going from there.

Allowing the rear axle more freedom to mould into the ground in search of grip, you will immediately feel safer after this small tweak. Softening the Bump and Rebound settings on the rear dampers may also give you a more compliant experience, but make sure these changes suit the track you are on. A bumpy venue will reward you for this whereas a smooth F1-grade track may well bite you back.

What are some go-to setup changes you make in Automobilista 2 now in V1.6? Let us know in the comments below and join the discussion in our AMS2 forum!
About author
Angus Martin
Motorsport gets my blood pumping more than anything else. Be it physical or virtual, I'm down to bang doors.

Comments

Premium
Another tip : a custom FFB file (it's been published on Franconen and Gamermuscle channels, I don't know where they found the file, a certain "Alex" ; thank you man). It is a "simplified" FFB, ignoring many effects of the default FFB+. focusing on the steering rack forces (I think it is the same approach than rfactor2). Just copy paste the following lines in your custom FFB file (erasing every line) :

NAME: Rack_Force
(rack (/ arm_force M_max_force_at_rack))
(output rack)
(output (* output gain))
(histogram output)

Another youtuber, I didn't know before, stated that it was possible to make some abusive adjustments on the GT3s and LMP2s on camber to gain substantial time (he got 2 seconds faster).
ACC had something similar I think. Some fairly extreme adjustments everyone used? All the sims have stuff like that. RF2 had a few, iRacing definitely has some ( the brake hack for one ). Anything complex like that and people will find ways to abuse it ( by abuse I assume you mean not how you would do it in real life ).
 
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Premium
Ok so I'm totally non technical. One issue I've had with AMS2 GT3's is the wheel trying to pull on you through some turns. GT3 is the only issue for this. In the past, I have sometimes just let go of the wheel and then grabbed it a split second after, not the perfect scenario I know. In one of the Beta releases this issue disappeared but in the final release, it came back. I tried increasing the clutches on 3 cars that it happened with and it felt better. It's really hard to explain (as a non tech person) what the issue is/was. The wheel "pulling" is the only way I can explain it hence if I let go of the wheel for a split second and then caught it, which in reality wasn't actually moving, it was all ok. Maybe increasing the clutches and it appearing to be better was just a coincidence but it appears to of worked today in testing.
 
Another tip : a custom FFB file (it's been published on Franconen and Gamermuscle channels, I don't know where they found the file, a certain "Alex" ; thank you man). It is a "simplified" FFB, ignoring many effects of the default FFB+. focusing on the steering rack forces (I think it is the same approach than rfactor2). Just copy paste the following lines in your custom FFB file (erasing every line) :

NAME: Rack_Force
(rack (/ arm_force M_max_force_at_rack))
(output rack)
(output (* output gain))
(histogram output)

Another youtuber, I didn't know before, stated that it was possible to make some abusive adjustments on the GT3s and LMP2s on camber to gain substantial time (he got 2 seconds faster).
Since discovering this from GM's video I too have found this ffb setting to be a truly massive step personally. It's totally improved the feel and with 1.6 it's a match made in heaven. You can feel when the tires have degraded which I never felt before on any other ffb setting.

Regarding the article, I've expressed my thoughts on the Reiza forum to bring about the engineer feature from project cars 1/2. I'm sure that was a thing where you could choose options like "the car doesn't turn on entry" and the engineer would recommend settings. This plays a huge part on getting people familiar with setups.
 
ACC had something similar I think. Some fairly extreme adjustments everyone used? All the sims have stuff like that. RF2 had a few, iRacing definitely has some ( the brake hack for one ). Anything complex like that and people will find ways to abuse it ( by abuse I assume you mean not how you would do it in real life ).
By abusing he meant by increasing a lot the camber in minus values. Who knows what is realistic? The issue may be a too low and irrealistic default camber value... In his video it looked like the same thing we had in the Codemasters F1 games (with maximum camber and lowest downforce possible to get optimal performances).
 
By abusing he meant by increasing a lot the camber in minus values. Who knows what is realistic? The issue may be a too low and irrealistic default camber value... In his video it looked like the same thing we had in the Codemasters F1 games (with maximum camber and lowest downforce possible to get optimal performances).

+100

Yes and ISIMotor is king of this :confused:, it's biggest downfall. :confused::confused:

( DD has lost it ! lol )

However I race offline and I force setups so it's irrelevant ;)
I also try to use what I at least think are acceptable settings , more pressure less camber toe etc.
I suggest others do the same.
 
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Madness Engine: cant turn led into gold, not even with the 1.6 engine. Tried it again and refunded after 15 minutes. It feels like an full arcade game trying to be a simulator. Aweful

My test has always been run a historic OW along the grass at Curva Grande or before Bourneville or similar.
I consider off track very important for realism.

Just test each sim how they move bounce slide and get back to track.
Getting rF2 back on track as fast as you can you have to learn.
AMS2 I just keep right foot planted ?

AMS 2 I could not even make a F3 jump over roadside bumps it's so heavy.
Obviously rF2 goes the other extreme and is too light imho but it's better then too heavy.

In rF2 I feel every micro wheel lift and wheel spin while in AMS 2 nothing like it where cars are just planted which does make if feel slightly more arcade then not.

Also you must take into account for mine that rF2 terrain is much better, it never stops.
Heading up to Masta you can change lines to increase just 50-100 rpm, something takes time to learn.
In AMS 2 these dynamics are simply non existent.

I still recommend AMS 2 as I do all sims.
 
Premium
Ok so I'm totally non technical. One issue I've had with AMS2 GT3's is the wheel trying to pull on you through some turns. GT3 is the only issue for this. In the past, I have sometimes just let go of the wheel and then grabbed it a split second after, not the perfect scenario I know. In one of the Beta releases this issue disappeared but in the final release, it came back. I tried increasing the clutches on 3 cars that it happened with and it felt better. It's really hard to explain (as a non tech person) what the issue is/was. The wheel "pulling" is the only way I can explain it hence if I let go of the wheel for a split second and then caught it, which in reality wasn't actually moving, it was all ok. Maybe increasing the clutches and it appearing to be better was just a coincidence but it appears to of worked today in testing.
I found this post by Nils incredibly helpful setting up the GT3s.

Tire pressures have a drastic influence on top speed, especially for qualifying raising pressures can help getting a quick lap without warming up the tire for 3-4 laps•
similarly any scraping on the ground causes a drop in top speed, so controlling minimum ride height on downforce car is very important•

⁠drag is much less influenced by wing changes compared to tire pressure changes•

⁠ambient and track temperature have drastic impact. Both cold and too hot tires make for a pretty bad experience.•
⁠usually both engine and brake cooling can be reduced massively from default setups (unless you struggle with hot tires already)•

⁠the differential is INSANELY powerful and can transform not only lap time or car behavior, but a well set up differential can transform the perception of the sim as a whole - going from "floaty" to "wtf is that grip!" (if you feel floatiness of the rear end, lower the coast lock degrees and increase the preload or clutch plates - go extreme with the values to feel the massive impact as a start). With a more locked coast diff you will likely be also able to run more aggressive downforce without the car becoming unstable• ⁠

all default setups seem rather conservative, add camber

With the above, and the custom FFB mentioned above, I've gone from GT3-Sceptic to really liking them almost more than in any other sim I've played. Not saying they are the best/most accurate at all, I'm sure LMU has that covered, but they are the ones I most enjoy driving.
 
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